Gently rapping at the pantry door

May 4, 2010 · 43 comments

Can you spot the teddies discussing which one of them is going to make a dash for the almond croissants?

Playing host to the annual Vincent Cappucino Festival since 2008, Angove Street has turned into quite the bustling cafe strip over the past few years. Its still has a lot to offer if your house is overrun with giant pests, your Swedish car has broken down or you’re in need of a cold beer and some local music, but it now also offers quite a few good food choices should the giant pest fighting have stirred your appetite. It was a friend’s birthday last week and so we battled the bustle, considering milkd or Il Circolo before deciding to visit The Pantry Door for the first time.

The Pantry Door was opened by friends Tracey Hogan and Jonathan Legros last year. Their individual paths that eventually lead to Angove Street were quite different – he comes from a classical French pastry background, also working in the US, Spain and Ireland before moving to Australia 6 years ago, while she came into the food industry in her 30s, working in such places as Lamont’s Swan Valley, Tarts Cafe and Deli Chicchi before fatefully meeting Jonathan while they were both working at Ultimo Catering.

It has been said that The Pantry Door has the feel of a French Grocer’s. I cannot comment on this as my time spent in France is limited to a half hour stopover in Grenoble spent within a plane cabin, and to its credit The Pantry Door felt nothing like this. It did quite have the feel of a more inviting Première Moisson though, so I guess I can say it has a Québécois bakery/bistro feel to it.

Lunch options abound, and we had a few questions to ask of the friendly waitstaff to help us with our decisions as not all the dishes were labelled, or some of the labels were a bit minimalist. The warmer dishes are displayed under plastic on the front counter, and included tuna cakes, salmon tart, stuffed mushrooms, quiche, pastries, pizza and warm salads. Everything looked freshly made and appetising. It was going to be a difficult decision.

To add fuel to the fire of indecision, we then turned to our left and were faced with an open fridge of focaccias, wraps, sandwiches, bagels and salads. I think I spied some ready-to-go bircher muesli in there too, along with a selection of cheeses. One of my lunch buddies declared that he would be very happy to grab some of the cheese from the fridge, a crusty baguette from the baked goods near the coffee machine, and eat this for his lunch.

Refusing the urges of his inner shepherd however, he decided upon a tuna cake with a side serve of the Asian chicken salad, an order which was copied by the birthday boy. I could not go past the smoked salmon flute, with a side serve of roasted vegetables.

We put in our orders and paid at the counter, before taking our seats at the lovely big wooden table in the middle of the cafe. The birthday boy got to sit at the head of it, on a red velvet seat no less. Perfect.

Tuna cake with Asian chicken salad

Both boys, birthday and otherwise, enjoyed their lunch. I managed to sneak a forkful of the tuna cake and it had a nice creamy texture and seemed to actually have a decent amount of tuna in it. I didn’t try the salad but reports were favourable.

Smoked salmon flute with roasted vegetable salad

I really enjoyed my lunch. The bread was perfectly crusty on the outside and soft on the inside, with nice big chunks of salt scattered on the top. The only thing I didn’t enjoy about the flute was the mayonnaise inside as I’m not much of a fan, but it did seem to be whole egg mayo and I could easily scoop out most of it so I was just left with a little hint, which I was happy with. The roast vegies were deliciously soft and provided a great contract with the crunch of the flute.

Please sir, someone appears to have stolen my lunch. I suspect the rooster.

I love the cutlery. The only other person I know with such knives is my Nanna, and they make me think of sitting at her table, spreading homemade jam onto her scones with one.

Some of the baked treats

After finishing our food we weren’t quite ready to leave the nice big table and the good conversation so we ordered coffees and some sweet treats. More indecision ensued before the chocolate & date slice and the banana bread were decided upon. I decided just to assist in the nibbling of others’ desserts, but if I did partake I would totally have gone for the cupcake with a poached pear inside it!!

When the birthday boy’s coffee arrived I realised I’ve been missing latte art since shifting over to ordering long blacks some time ago. Long blacks just aren’t as photogenic as these milky creations. Pretty or not, our coffees were very good.

Date and Chocolate Slice


Banana Bread

Both the slice and the banana bread were very well received. The slice was short and crumbly yet held together well with the goop of the dates and chocolate, was not too sweet at all, and overall quite moreish. The banana bread was served lightly toasted with a generous serve of butter, looked perfectly dense, and had surprise chunks of fruit with a crumble topping. The birthday boy happily polished off the lot, declaring it to be very good. I think I’ll have to try some next time, or take some home with me.

Mixed berry muffin

Due to some sort of miscommunication we also ended up with a mixed berry muffin which I took home with me for afternoon tea. I’m not a big muffin eater (or a small muffin eater for that matter) but this was packed with berries and I quite enjoyed it. More than kept me going through a hellish afternoon of marking, too.

Service throughout our meal was friendly and helpful. I can’t comment on the prices as I have no idea what we paid for our meals I’m sorry. I think if I worked nearby I could happily make my way through all the hot and cold meals, and the muesli too if I were running late in the morning. I foolishly didn’t think to ask, but it appears from the chalkboard that the breakfast menu is only available on weekends from 8:30 to 11:30, so I should return soon to assess this as well. Oh and you can probably tell from the photos, and the name, that they also sell a selection of pantry items. I’m glad we ventured inside the door, this place is recommended.

The Pantry Door
36-38 Angove Street, North Perth
(08) 9227 0077

Pantry Door on Urbanspoon

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{ 43 comments… read them below or add one }

Annette @ Wellness WA May 4, 2010 at 2:45 pm

Oh man, you are such a good writer. I adored this review!

Especially the parts about the ‘inner shepherd’ and the rooster eating your lunch.

Stop being so witty or ELSE.

But seriously, I’m kinda craving a cupcake with a pear in it right now. Or some banana bread. HECKYES.

PS. The word verification is ‘podsy’, is this in fact an actual word? All signs point to unlikely and if it -is- a real word, I don’t approve.

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5 Star Foodie May 4, 2010 at 6:18 pm

Sounds like a great lunch here!

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Betty @ The Hungry Girl May 4, 2010 at 9:42 pm

Cupcake with poached pear inside?! Sounds awesome.. You have to go back just to try that I think!

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Rachel May 4, 2010 at 10:30 pm

When I was in college I watched a Korean drama that featured a cool barrista. Inspiration ensued, and I decided that one of my life goals was to master the art of latte designs. Haha, still haven’t got around to that one yet. Anyways, looks like a lovely place. I’m hungry for roasted veggie salad now! Thanks as always.

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Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella May 5, 2010 at 12:04 am

Hehe yes I’d like the blame various other creatures for eating my meals too! :P Oh no you’re not a mayo fan? I would bathe in teh stuff if I could (actually I’ve heard it’s good as a hair masque :P)

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Panamahat May 5, 2010 at 12:23 am

Why was Angove street only the home of one stuffy antique store when I live in North Perth? Sigh. Just ahead of my time, I guess…

Jealous now.

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Hannah May 5, 2010 at 3:10 am

Your jokes about giant pests overrunning houses is hitting far too close to home (oooh, is that a pun?) for me. I think I’m heading back to my house-sitting place tonight, and I fear finding spiders snuggling in my bed.

I think I would’ve been helpless before the bircher muesli and a hunka hunka cheese. Specially as I’m no mayo fan either :) Things with the texture of what is currently oozing from my toe are not appealing. (TOO FAR, HANNAH, TOO FAR.)

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erin May 5, 2010 at 5:32 am

I had the most lacklustre lunch today. This post just made me SO hungry. How convenient that I finish work at 12pm tomorrow… I think I will be scooting by the Pantry Door for lunch on my way home! Om nom!

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Conor @ HoldtheBeef May 5, 2010 at 5:56 am

Annette @ Wellness WA – you’re going to make my head so big I won’t be able to fit inside the Pantry Door anymore! :D Thanks heaps, it’s so nice to read that. Also, the inner shpeherd and rooster bits were my favourites to write! Hmmmm, podsy…. I agree it is unlikely, and not so sure I approve either if otherwise.

5 Star Foodie – surely was! :)

Betty @ The Hungry Girl – I know, I am kicking myself for not having thought of it! I think I have to agree with you. A return visit is imminent.

Rachel – I know what you mean, I’ve been meaning to do some barista courses for years now. The WA Barista Academy is actually located about 50 metres from my apartment. I have no excuses!

Lorraine @ Not Quite Nigella – hehe ;) Oh no I’m sorry to ruin the magic! I can pretend to like mayo? Mmmmmmm mayo delicious I love it so much oh yes oh my!

Panamahat – I’ve always said that about you. You were clearly 10 years too early! Next thing we know, Derby is going to be the food mecca of the world.

Hannah – a pun for sure. You just can’t help yourself can you? ;) Just walk into the room saying “Oh yes, this can of spider spray is so big and full, I can hardly hold it” and they will get scared and scuttle away. Actually, just walk in waving your oozy toe around. I’m sure they’ll bugger off quick as a flash.

erin – How convenient indeed. Suspiciously so. Be sure to tell them I sent you. This will be useful as it will likely confuse them as they try to figure out why they are meant to know who I am, and they might accidentally give you an extra sandwich or cupcake.

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Hannah May 5, 2010 at 5:58 am

I like your ideas. Though I might follow up the “this spider spray is so huge” comment with “and I have a basilisk on speed-dial”. Harry Potter geekitude? Oh yes.

P.S. Thank you for not excommunicating me from your blog because of my toe comment.

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Conor @ HoldtheBeef May 5, 2010 at 6:01 am

Hannah, this plan surely cannot fail. Excommunication may be imminent if I cannot get the oozy image from my brain anytime soon…. ;)

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mademoiselle délicieuse May 5, 2010 at 9:16 am

Big Brekky in Sydney have that same sort of cutlery! The knives also have those pale yellow handles and it all looks very pre-loved, which just adds to the homely charm =)

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penny aka jeroxie May 5, 2010 at 10:45 am

Definitely the type of place I like to have a casual meal. I will have that muffin if you don’t.

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asha May 5, 2010 at 3:35 pm

bad rooster!

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Simply Life May 6, 2010 at 12:55 am

oh those desserts look great!

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Maria@TheGourmetChallenge May 6, 2010 at 3:07 am

I’m a littler perplexed by the butter sitting next to the muffin. I dont normally put butter on my muffin, but I think I might start.

Also, quick question, did you play a note on your fluke?? sorry had to do it…pretty lame huh?

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Pam May 6, 2010 at 4:09 am

What a fantastic b-day lunch. The place looks really cute. The sandwich looks tasty and so did the roasted veggie salad, but the mixed berry muffin has me drooling.

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denise @ quickies on the dinner table May 6, 2010 at 10:29 am

*Harrumph* my lunch was a MacD’s double cheeseburger I threw the pickle out of and stuffed with sliced avocado and a lick of wasabi. I thought it was pretty good….till your post walked by *sigh*

Anyway – I have some stuff for you at my blog…nothing you have to pass along and such so, I do hope you’ll come take a look :)

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A cupcake or two May 6, 2010 at 11:53 am

The Pantry Door looks like a nice little cafe to enjoy a good book and a coffee. I have a thing for dates at the moment. I like the look of the date and chocolate slice. Yumm… I need to get myself to Perth.

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Cocina Savant May 6, 2010 at 3:01 pm

I must say that I am far from knowledgeable about Australian cuisine either, but that is the excellent thing about having friends in the blogging world. We learn snippets and areas of culture and cooking that we would have never known. This meal looks excellent, and bravo on the review.

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Conor @ HoldtheBeef May 6, 2010 at 3:32 pm

mademoiselle délicieuse – it’s just so nanna-y, I love it. Sure, you might need something a little more violent if you’re having a steak, but well, I’m not much of a steak eater :D

penny aka jeroxie – Nooo it’s mine! Well, I’d share it with you but it’s mysteriously disappeared.

asha – totally. I would have eaten him if I weren’t so full. Of nothing in particular.

Simply Life – I think I shall have to return and try my stomach at all of them. It’s only fair.

Maria@TheGourmetChallenge – Yes I was a little perplexed as well, and also a little sad that I couldn’t take the butter home with me when I took the muffin home. Oh Maria, I would expect nothing less from you in the comment department ;)

Pam – yes, I’m so glad it was a good meal seeing as it was my friend’s birthday. The stakes are just that bit higher! So many berries in that muffin, so many.

denise @ quickies on the dinner table – Wow, you know how to make a Maccas burger actually sound ok. Avocado and wasabi are genius additions, though I have to disagree about the lack of pickle love. And thank you my friend! Very happy with the ‘stuff’ :D

A cupcake or two – definitely, would happily while away an hour or two parked up at the big table (on the red velvet chair, thank you) with a good book and some delicious carbs. I always have a thing for dates, and it was a good slice. Oh and Perth needs you too!

Cocina Savant – couldn’t agree more! For instance I’ve been loving all the great Cinco de Mayo recipes around at the moment, as we don’t celebrate it here, but it is quite painful having to look at such deliciousness as your Carnitas :D Thanks very much!

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Lazaro Cooks! May 6, 2010 at 4:13 pm

Saw you on Denise and Jenn’s page. Glad I found your blog. Look forward to following you here. Cheers!

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Mhel May 6, 2010 at 9:31 pm

I love the concept of the cafe!! I can eat and stay all day in that place! Like you, i will have a difficulty in choosing which to eat! Everything looks delish… Love the tuna cake and the roasted vegies… and of course the chinas..

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Gastronomy Gal May 7, 2010 at 1:15 am

those knives are adorable and my nan has them too.. Nostalgia.

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Cakelaw May 7, 2010 at 2:53 am

This all looks soooo good! The date and chocolate slice is for me.

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Ellie (Almost Bourdain) May 7, 2010 at 4:26 am

What a great review! Love the concept and I am eying for the date and chocolate slice!

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Lori @ Wannabe Gourmand May 7, 2010 at 7:53 am

Don’t fear – I hated mayo as well until recently. Now I would happily frolic through a vat of the stuff.

Your day will come…(maybe).

That roasted veg salad looks divine by the way! Can’t believe I haven’t heard of this place before…must be rectified asap.

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Conor @ HoldtheBeef May 7, 2010 at 8:36 am

Lazaro Cooks! – glad to have found yours too! Thanks!

Mhel – me too, I’ll meet you there? We can make our way through the whole menu.

Gastronomy Gal – Oh, Nans, aren’t they the best? I would love one of my Nan’s scones right now. Well, and to see my Nan too of course. With scones. ;)

Cakelaw – Glad I found this place!

Ellie (Almost Bourdain) – thank you! I agree, and would like to have a chat with the owners next time. Perhaps over a piece of the slice :)

Lori @ Wannabe Gourmand – there is hope for me then? I don’t hate hate it, so perhaps it won’t take much for me to be frolicing along with you. The waitress offered me a garnishy garden side salad with the flute, but there was no way I was going past those roasted veg. They had to be mine.

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Jenn [Defunkt Gourmet] May 8, 2010 at 12:23 am

Hi!
Love the owl oreos for your header photo, brilliant!

*sigh*. this is the sort of place that my Canadian prairie city needs. Instead we have lots of Starbucks and more Tim Horton’s than you can shake a stick at. So lucky and the foods looked super fantastique. ~ I’d have to agree, the cutlery is great and I also liked the plates.

Today my lunch consisted of half a box of Kashi 7 grain crackers. Never again. Also for dinner, an entire grocery bunch of asparagus.

Lucky indeed. Look forward to your posts!

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Renee May 8, 2010 at 3:42 am

that banana bread looks AMAZING! yum! ross and i went a while back and had some type of brioche and ham stack it was delish! inspired to go again!

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rund May 8, 2010 at 6:38 am

Haha if it wasn’t for our mothers we could go tomorrow (and drag you away from Milk’d). Next week Renee?

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Conor @ HoldtheBeef May 8, 2010 at 4:07 pm

Jenn – thank you! Oh Tim Horton’s, I remember your watery coffee and making myself sick on your timbits. Why did I continue shoving them in my mouth when I’d already eaten too many? Why??? We don’t have Starbucks here (or Tim Horton’s, obviously!) and I can’t say this upsets me very much. I wish a place like the Pantry Door appears for you soon…am squeezing my eyes tightly together and wishing super hard. Did it work? I don’t want you eating crackers for lunch! At least follow it up with 5 tonne of timbits ;)

Renee – I know, doesn’t it?! Was tempted to grab the rest of the loaf, duck down below the counter and scurry away down the street. Go again, but watch out for those roosters. And scurrying banana bread thieves.

rund – ah see well you need to move a few hundred kilometres away from your mothers and your problem is solved. This might mean moving to Geraldton though, in which case you may not have anywhere worth going for breakfast. Quite a conundrum.

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Arwen from Hoglet K May 11, 2010 at 5:18 pm

I’m not much of a mayonnaise fan either, but the roast veggies sound lovely. Date slice is the best too, especially with chocolate. My mum has a lot of those bone-handled knives, but I’ve never seen one for sale.

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Jenn [Defunkt Gourmet] May 11, 2010 at 9:23 pm

Timbits are my frenemies. They’re so good but horrible for my derriere… :( hahaha… so you too got caught up on Tim Horton’s too lol… that stuff is crack in the Canadian prairies. CRACK!!!

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Mardi @eatlivetravelwrite May 11, 2010 at 11:22 pm

That cutlery. My Nana had similar pieces and I can also picture her hands cream and jamming one of her homemade scones :-)

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Conor @ HoldtheBeef May 13, 2010 at 10:51 am

Arwen – glad to have an ally in the somewhat-anti-mayo club. I don’t think I’ve seen them for sale either, but I really don’t check out second hand shops as much as I should.

Jenn – oh they are evil! Deliciously evil! Foolish of us to buy one of those massively gigantic boxes between only two of us on a long car journey.

Mardi – it’s a lovely thing to picture isn’t it? :)

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Lauren Rogers August 1, 2011 at 5:48 pm

hehehe:) i work thereeeeee:D its amazing:)

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Conor August 12, 2011 at 9:06 am

I went back for lunch recently for the first time in AGES and it was just as delicious as I remember :) The worst part is not spending all my money on baked goods to take home with me.. or rather, baked goods to take to the car and eat before I even get home :|

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